by Mary Ann Dancisin, photos by Liz Elkind
Teri Van Goethem is an Earth Mother for the new century. We’re not talking crunchy-granola hippie – instead, the proprietress of DC Bread and Brew is astute, articulate, a little bit shy, and bursting with an earthy sensuality expressed in both physical appearance and easy, engaging smile.
We’re sitting on the deck in front of the above-referenced establishment, on one of those teasingly warm pre-Spring days. Teri is dealing with multiple challenges at the moment: a catering client has changed an order for later this afternoon and I get the chance to see her thinking on her feet, turning on a dime, and saving the day.
A server delivers a mug of hot steamy coffee, dark nut brown in color, rich in body and flavor. Teri proudly proclaims her allegiance to organically grown coffee. The mug itself is the work of a local artisan, and its plush shades of nutmeg, gold and amber seem to impart an extra something to the coffee.
So the “brew” in Bread and Brew refers to the coffee? Or is it to the chalkboard list of esoteric beers on tap?
“Our original name was supposed to be Born and Bread, since DC is my home. But at the last second, we were made aware of some trademark issues. Boy, did I have a few sleepless nights! But suddenly it came to me: Bread and Brew! Minimal changes to all the signage I had ordered, and a better description of what’s inside.”
Ok, but beer? Or coffee? “Either. Both!” Teri laughs. “It just works!”
The drinks don’t end there. Down a short flight of stairs, in an intimate and moody cellar space, the area’s premier “green” bar, certified by The Green Restaurant Association, is a lively after work hangout.
Chef and beverage manager Kingsley John brings a touch of the Caribbean to DC Bread and Brew with his soft, lilting accent and quick smile. A native of St. Lucia, Kingsley came to the capital via New York and Chicago after stints at Aquavit and Charlie Trotter’s. Chef John unleashes his keen culinary skills on great cocktails. Tru2 Organic Gin and 100% Organic American Wheat Vodka are the basis for several delicious martinis, including The Spring Blush – featuring strawberries, basil and Virginia maple syrup. And a lush, smoky bourbon gets taken to another place with a long steep of cherries.
“People love it in an Old Fashioned, or even straight,” Teri explains. “Our grenadine is house-made as well.”
Kingsley is a big fan of ginger beer and concocts an enticing Spiced Cider Bourbon that mixes the Caribbean favorite with unfiltered organic apple cider. His Mint Julep features organic mint as well as local bourbon. Strawberry Basil Lemonade served up in mason jars is always a hit with the crowd. Kingsley’s “adult” Sno-Cones come out as the weather warms, and in the summer, Teri and Kingsley unveil the Peach Smash: a mint julep layered with fresh local peaches, fresh local mint and local bourbon.
Hard apple cider from New York is available, as well as a pear hard cider. Both contain no preservatives or artificial flavors. Bread and Brew also serves up a stellar California sparkler, Domaine Carneros, made by pioneering winemaker Eileen Crane, who several years ago took all of the estate’s vineyards organic.
DC Bread and Brew, which occupies a once abandoned circa-1920s building, is nestled in a giant glass-and-steel canyon a block off K Street. Teri transformed it into a destination space for the District’s green-conscious consumers. And there are more in downtown DC than one might think.
Teri uses Energy Star equipment and appliances, soy-based paints, recycled materials wherever possible, and most importantly, locally sourced ingredients. If no local supplier exists, then she chooses sustainable producers and free-trade partners. “We may be the exception now, but soon this will all be the norm,” she asserts confidently.
“We are in competition with many, many caterers in this area, and we consistently find that the fact that we are a green establishment seals the deal,” Teri explains. “That’s the tipping point. So many of our clients feel that it’s consistent with their own company’s philosophy or politics.”
She explains why she chose this particular niche: “When we were growing up, my dad was vegetarian for health reasons, and my older sister became a vegan very early on. Her decision was based more on humane reasons. So I had always been exposed to this lifestyle.”
“There’s a popular misconception that it’s expensive to go green,” she continues. “Part of my mission is to convince people that it’s not nearly as hard as you think.”
DC Bread and Brew, which Teri founded two years ago after stints at Dean and Deluca, Balducci’s and High Noon, also offers a street level café that serves soups, sandwiches, wood-burning brick oven artisan pizzas. There is always a fresh vegan and vegetarian special.
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Bread & Brew Spring Blush
2 ounces TRU Organic Gin
1 ripe strawberry
2 organic basil leaves
1 ounce Virginia Maple Syrup
1 ounce fresh Lime Juice
Muddle all ingredients together. Shake & pour over ice into tall glass. Top with club soda.
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DC Bread and Brew
1247 20th St, NW, Washington DC 20036
main 202-466-2676 | fax 202-466-2090
breadandbrew.com
